Paolo Stella is one quarter of the famous 'Erpacrife four' but his day job is winemaker for the family's estate in Costigliole d'Asti, in the heart of Monferrato about halfway between Alba and Asti. Although Barbera is grown all over Piedmont, accounting for more than fifty per cent of the region's DOC wines, it is thought to be native to the Monferrato hills. Site and winemaking play a big role in determining the style, but Barbera from Asti generally tends to be a bigger, richer and more powerful wine that those of Alba.