The Brunate cru lies in the commune of La Morra and Barolo and is one of the
most famous in the region. Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Map Man, says he is
often asked which is his favourite cru and he tries to find an excuse not to
give an answer. But just quietly, Brunate is at the top of his list. He goes on
to say "I like the earthy style of the wines, sometimes drier and sometimes
fleshier, but above all I admire the consistency and character from every
position on the slopes and from the hands of every winemaker. This consistency
never ceases to amaze me since the vineyards of Brunate are anything but
Marcarini's Brunate is a selection of the best grapes from their 4.5 hectares. The wine is aged for two years in medium and large botti and three years in bottle. Austere and imposing, displaying tobacco, spice, cinnamon, tar and dried rose scents; the palate is both powerful and complex with velvety tannins and great persistence. Cellar life of 20 years, more in the finest vintages.
"Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyard so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of this wine of late, and gee they are looking VERY good."
"Menthol and liquorice, porcini mushroom, spice, red and black berries, subdued floral notes. It’s tight, earthy and packed with grainy ‘mineral’ tannin and chalky feel, kind of reticent as at now, but with latent power and perfume to come. Tobacco and chewy feel, on a long firm finish. A lot more grunt this vintage, though that’s no bad thing either. Wait." 96 points. Gary Walsh, The Winefront